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Thursday, March 26, 2009

DIY CO2 Reactor

DIY CO2 Reactor

http://atlas.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/diy_reactor.htm

This page shows how to construct a simple but very efficient reactor to dissolve CO2 into water.


The operation of this CO2 reactor is pretty simple. Bubbles of CO2 rise up thru a downward current of water. The bubbles get churned around in the current, and dissolve into the water.

Water flow is provided by a small powerhead/pump. I used a Rio 600. I originally tried a smaller pump (a Rio 180), but it's flow was too low and the reactor didn't work.

Water from the powerhead is pumped thru a hose, into the "reactor" which is just a modified Gravel-Vac tube. At the bottom of the tube, I inserted a 2 inch tall piece of sponge. This allows the water to flow out of the tube, but prevents the CO2 bubbles from getting pushed out of the tube. I placed 5 or 6 bio-balls in the tube. The CO2 line from the CO2 regulator enters from the top of the reactor. With the pump running, water flows into the gravel-vac tube. CO2 bubbles enter at the bottom, and rise up. They get caught in the current, and get churned around. They quickly dissolve and disappear. The bio-balls provide extra turbulance, and slow the rising bubbles, helping increase the rate at which the CO2 dissolves. CO2 enriched water is forced out the bottom of the tube.

Before using this reactor setup, I was bubbling the CO2 directly into the intake of my main water pump. Using that method, I had to run about 5 bubbles per second, and the CO2 level was about 15ppm. Using this new reactor, I'm running at 2-3 bubbles per second, and the CO2 level is 20ppm. The increased efficiency is obvious.

DIY Yeast CO2

Do it yourself - Co2 generator for planted aquariums


http://www.plantedtank.net/articles/DIY-Yeast-CO2/7/

Since DIY C02 is a pretty popular method of injecting C02 into small tanks 30 gallons or less I've made an article to help anyone in the process of making a C02 unit. So lets just get right into it.

First were going to need a few things to make the unit. These include:
- A drill
- A few feet or airline tubing
- A pair of scissors
- A sealant
- A checkvalve (optional)

DIY CO2 Equipment

Now first you have to take the drill and find a bit that is just a little smaller then the diameter of the tubing (the kind of tubing you choose does'nt matter much, I used silicon because it has a little more resistance to C02 and will last a little longer than the normal clear tubing, but its fine if you choose the regualr tubing).

Then cut the tubing down to the size of which it will be ran to your tank, also make sure to leave some loose tubing just incase you need to resituate the bottle or anything else dealing with the length of the tube. Then drill a hole in the center of the cap and fit the tubing in as snug as you can get it. Only put the tubing in 2-3 centimeters. After this is done you are ready to seal the cap.

So now bring out the sealant and get some in the cap against the tubing to make a seal. Let it sit for 30 minutes to an hour for it to dry somewhat. Then repeat the same thing for the top and let it sit. After your done sealing the tube don't mess with it much because it may move the tube and make it a less secure seal.

Now you may want to wait a full day just to make sure your sealant is fully sealed. Don't be impatient you'll probably end up resealing it if you do put it to use too soon. By now you have finished making the C02 unit and you are ready to make the C02 mixture. This is what the end product should look like:

DIY CO2 Bottle

But before we jump right into making the mixture lets talk about methods of Diffusion. \

There are tons of methods to diffuse the C02 into your tank. To list just a few there are:
- C02 Reactors
- Diffusion Unit
- Injection into a Power Filter
- Airstones

Of course there are more but I dont want to get that detailed into the diffusion. If you are running a power filter just stick the tubing into the intake and the impellar will dissolve the C02 very well. Another easy method is an airstone, but let me tell you from my experience that it is a poor method and most of the C02 doesn't dissolve into the water. So I'd stick with the filter intake method it works great.

--How to make the Mixture--

Okay now to make the mixture we need a few things:
- The 2L Bottle
- Sugar
- Yeast
- Measuring Spoon
- A funnel

DIY CO2 Mixture Supplies

I use the mixture of 2 cups sugar and 1/2 tsp of yeast. There are other mixtures and they have other affects. More yeast means the mixture will produce a lot of C02 but not last as long, as the yeast eats the sugar and a biproduct is the C02. So with this 1/2 a tsp it produces a constant C02 for a longer period of time, I would say for 3 weeks and the 1 tsp mixture lasts 2 weeks or less. Whatever you choose is fine, but I recommend the 2 cups and 1/2 tsp yeast.

Now take the bottle set the funnel in the top and get ready to pour in some sugar and yeast (you could use a piece of paper for a funnel if you dont have one, but i fortunately found one around the house). Now add the 2 cups of sugar, and the 1/2 tsp of yeast. Then its time to add the water. To get a good start of C02 production we want to use luke warm water, dont use hot water because this will kill the yeast. Fill the bottle with water up to the brim were it starts to curve into the top. Im not sure how to explain this that well, but just leave a 3" gap between the water level and the top.

Now you have the 2 cups of sugar, 1/2 tsp of yeast, and the water in the bottle. Find a cap and shake up the mixture well and then let hook it up to your sealed cap which should be hooked up the tank in your diffusion method that you chose. Dont leave the undrilled cap on the mixture and forget it, you will come back to a huge mess, remember this produces C02 and if its not left a point to exit it will turn into a bomb. Now that its hooked up it should take and hour or two to start producing. It may take a day depending on the temperature of water you used and if the yeast is active. Also remember to shake it up everyfew days to keep the unit producing C02.

Why your 10 gallon tank needs more light than the WPG rule states?

Minimum Light Threshold - Rex Grigg

http://www.rexgrigg.com/mlt.html

Why your 10 gallon tank needs more light than the WPG rule states.

Take a one gallon tank. Put a 4 watt bulb on it. You now have a 4 watt per gallon tank. But wait! It seems that nothing will survive in your “high” light micro tank. Why is that? Well plants need a minimum threshold of light to survive and grow. And this minimum is not expressed in the watt per gallon rule.
Here's the skinny on light energy. At noon in the tropics where a lot of our plants come from the sun provides up to 140,000 lumens per square meter. If you take your 10 gallon tank and look at the surface area it has you would have to have almost 220 watts of light on it to equal what the sun provides. Kind of makes your 20-40 watts look insignificant doesn't it?
Now if you did somehow manage to cram that much light over a 10 gallon tank you would have to devise some kind of cooling system and a system to automatically keep the tank filled. Because just like in the tropics that water is going to be doing some heavy duty evaporation. But it does point out why the watt per gallon rule breaks down.

If you take a standard 55 gallon tank you would have to have 660 watts of light over it to equal what you get in the tropics. Now, let's take a more reasonable figure of lux on a square meter say 75,000 lux. Using this figure we come up with 117 watts over the 10 gallon tank and 353 watts over the 55 gallon tank. Now I know some people who are using over 300 watts on a 55 gallon tank and getting some great plant growth. I also know one person who has used 72 watts over a 10 gallon tank and gotten great plant growth. But these very high light tanks are hard to keep balanced.

So let's use a known example. Let's take a 55 gallon tank with 220 watts of light. I think that everyone will pretty much agree that you can grow anything you want in this tank. This tank has right about 30 lux per square inch of surface area. If we take that number and apply it to a 10 gallon tank we end up with a recommended high light value of 6000 lux or 71 watts!!!!! Note all these lux values for light are taken from the 6700k bulb sold by AH Supply.

So to make it short you would have to have 71 watts of light over a 10 gallon tank to get the same effect you would have with 220 watts over a 55 gallon tank. Now I know the 10 gallon tank is almost half the height of the 55 so you will be able to get by with a bit less light than that. But it does I think show why the watt per gallon rule really doesn't work that well on smaller tanks. And to prove this point let's look at a larger tank where we know the watt per gallon rule also breaks down

Our example here is going to be a 125 gallon tank. It's pretty much well known that if you hit 3 wpg on a tank this size you can grow anything. So what kind of lux value does that give us? 24 lux per square inch. Compare that with the 55 gallon tank which has right about 30 lux per square inch. Pretty close.


Lux


So what I am going to propose is that instead of thinking in watts per gallon we instead think in lux per square inch or LSI. Let's look at these figures based on a 55 gallon tank with 110 watts of light (low light), 160 watts (medium light) and 220 watts (high light).

  • Low light is 15 LSI — you can grow a fair amount of aquarium plants.
  • Medium light is 22.4 LSI — you can grow most of the aquarium plants available.
  • High light is 30 LSI — you can grow all aquarium plants.

And since those are hard numbers let's instead make them ranges.

  • Low light is 12-17 LSI — you can grow a fair amount of aquarium plants.
  • Medium light is 20-25 LSI — you can grow most of the aquarium plants available.
  • High light is 28-32 LSI — you can grow all aquarium plants.
  • Very high light is over 35 LSI — same as high — all doubts removed.

Now I know what you are thinking. I can do watts per gallon pretty easy. But how do I figure this LSI thing? Well find the surface area of your tank in square inches. Then take the LSI number you want to reach. Multiply the surface area by the LSI. Take the result and divide it by the LUX rating of your chosen light. I will admit that this system is not perfect by any means. But I think it gives a better idea than the WPG rule

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

List of low light plants

This post will be looked by many hobbyists, I am sure.

So here is the list of plants along with little details about individual species that grow in medium to low light conditions in my tanks.

Anubias
Aponogeton

Bacopa
Cardimine lyrata
Elodea/Egeria/anachris
Hygrophila difformis
Hygrophila polysperma
Limnophila sp.
Ludwigia repens
Mayaca fluviatilis
Crinum
Cryptocoryne
Echinodorus
Valisneria

Bolbitus heudelotii
Ceratopteris
Java fern
Riccia fluitans
Java moss

How to set up a planted tank

I found this gem of an article, which is a must read for all hobbyists who are new to this hobby. :-)

The article is written by Karen Randal, a renowned aquarist. Aquarist is a short form for the phrase 'aquarium artist'. While reading kindly keep in mind that conditions where she stay is very different from ours. Hence all steps told by her are not required here, like buying a thermostat or a heater for you aquarium is mostly redundant here in the tropics while it is absolutely a necessity in temperate and arctic climates. If you have any dilemma kindly drop me a mail. I would be happy to guide you.

Some excerpts from, http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/plants/randall_Setting%20up.html


Setting Up a Planted Aquarium

The Tank:
A tank between 10 and 30 gallons is the best size for beginners. Smaller tanks can be managed, but require more attention to detail. Larger tanks often take up more space than can be spared and are more expensive. Certainly, if you have a tank that is outside this range, don't hesitate to use it, but be aware that these instructions will have to be modified.
If possible, use a tank that is longer than it is tall. Tall, narrow tanks and those of unusual shapes are difficult to light adequately, and are also hard to work in. Some of the best tanks are:
Standard 10 gallon, standard 15 gallon, 20 gallon "long", 20 gallon "high", 29 gallon "high", 30 gallon "long".
All of these tanks can be outfitted with commonly available aquarium equipment.

Other equipment and supplies:
- Enough good quality fluorescent lighting to reach at least 2 watts per gallon. An exception to this rule is the 10 gallon tank. This tank is small enough and shallow enough that you can usually get adequate growth of shade tolerant plants using a single 15 watt bulb as long as the bulb is less than 1 year old, and of good quality. Except for the 29 gallon "high" tank, all of the other tanks mentioned can be adequately lit with two bulbs of the largest size that will fit on the tank. i.e., two 24" 20 watt bulbs over the 20 gallon tanks, and two 36" 30 watt bulbs over the 30 gallon tank. For the 29 gallon size, you will need three 24" 20W bulbs for adequate light. Aquarium strip light fixtures come as either double or single bulb fixtures. You can use any combination of single or double bulb fixtures that will meet your needs.
Some good brands of bulbs are:
More expensive: VitaLite Pennplax Ultra-Trilux Triton
Less Expensive: GE Chroma 50 Phillips Ultralume 5000 Phillips Daylight
- Glass canopy
- Heater: 150W heaters are probably adequate for the 10-20 gallon tanks, 200W heaters will be adequate for the larger tanks. Buy a good quality submersible heater. Don't skimp here... a tank is left unattended too often to risk your plants and animals to a faulty thermostat!
- Thermometer: Any aquarium thermometer will do, but I prefer the stick-on-the-glass liquid crystal type for several reasons. They are unobtrusive, but easy to read, they are inexpensive, and most are marked with both Fahrenheit and Celsius scales which makes them another useful learning tool.
- Filter: Do not use an under gravel filter or other air driven filter in a planted tank. It will drive off needed CO2. Use either an internal or external power filter. There are many good ones on the market. My preference is for those that have rinsable, reusable filtration media rather than those with disposable "cartridges". They are less expensive to maintain, and more environmentally friendly. Any good pet shop can tell you which size filter to get for your particular tank, but it is better to slightly oversize the filter rather than skimping. A couple of reliable brands of outside power filters are Marineland and Hagen. Duetto internal power filters are excellent in a number of applications.
- CO2 Generator: See specific directions for making a yeast reactor.
- Electrical equipment: Use a heavy duty power strip to provide power for your aquarium equipment. If you cannot locate the tank near an outlet, use a heavy duty extension cord. You will also need a light timer (like the ones used when people go on vacations) to turn the tank lights on and off each day.
- Support: Remember that an aquarium is heavy! Filled, it will weigh close to 10 pounds per gallon. 10 gallon tanks can be placed on a sturdy table. Larger tanks really need a properly designed aquarium stand.
- Gravel: Use fine non-coated natural color aquarium gravel. It should be between 1-3 mm. in size, and not contain calcium carbonate bearing rock. You can test this by placing a drop or two of muriatic acid (available at the hardware store) on a sample of gravel. If it foams, don't use it.
You will need about a 25 pound bag for a 10 gallon to 20 "high" tank, you'll probably need a 50 pound bag for the larger tanks.
- Laterite: This is an iron rich tropical clay that will serve as the nutrient base for your plants. Your local pet store will either carry it, or can order for you.
- Another very good alternative for the substrate of a planted tank is Seachem Flourite. This product is attractive, easy to use and grows plants very well. You do not need to add laterite or other materials to a Flourite substrate; it can be used as-is.

Tank Set Up:
These directions make the following assumptions about your tap water:
- KH: (carbonate hardness) reading of between 3 and 8 KH. (test kit, or have the pet store do the test for you)
- Phosphate: below .5 mg/l (test kit, or water department report)
- Nitrate: Below 10 mg/l (test kit or water department report)
If your tap water does not fall within these parameters, you will need to make some modifications. Contact your pet shop for specific suggestions.

- Place the tank on a stable, level surface. If there is even the slightest unevenness in the support, the tank can develop leaks. If you have any question about the surface that you are placing the tank on, place a couple of sheets of corrugated cardboard, or a sheet of styrofoam under the tank. Any excess can be trimmed off close around the tank. This is also a very good idea if you are using an open metal aquarium stand. The styrofoam will prevent heat loss from the bottom of the tank.
- Before you go any further, fill the tank with water, wait twenty minutes to test for leaks and empty. This may seem like an annoying waste of time, because most tanks will not leak. But believe me, if you've bought the one that does, you will be much more annoyed if you find out about the leak after the tank is fully set up and running.
- Install the thermometer, filter and heater, but don't plug anything in yet. Set your heater to approximately 76F unless you will be using fish that specifically need warmer (like Discus or Rams) or cooler (like Goldfish or White Clouds) water.
- Rinse your gravel under running water until the water runs clean. The better you rinse your gravel, the less cloudy the tank will be when it is first filled. Mix laterite into damp gravel in a bucket. Use enough gravel to make an approximate 1 to 1 1/2" bed in the bottom of the tank. Be prepared, this step is messy! You might want to wear rubber gloves. While you want the gravel to be damp, try to avoid introducing any standing water to the aquarium.
Note: Seachem Flourite will NOT rinse completely clear - That's OK, it is an important property of the substrate, and if the tank is filled slowly, there will only be minimal temporary clouding of the water.
- Next cap the substrate with enough plain rinsed gravel to bring the total depth of the substrate to 3". With a 10 gallon tank, you can get by with a gravel bed of 2 - 2 1/2". Level the front edge of the gravel carefully so that it looks neat once the tank is filled.
- If you are planning to use driftwood or any decorative rocks, they can be placed in the tank now.
- The next step is to fill the tank about 3/4 full of water. The water should be between 70-80ºF. The exact temperature is not critical, but you want to be within a range that will not harm the plants. How you fill the tank will make the difference between a tank that will be crystal clear by morning, and one that can take a week or longer to settle down.
- Get a shallow saucer or bowl and place it on the gravel. VERY slowly, TRICKLE the water onto the saucer. Let it gently overflow, filling up the tank. When the saucer is completely submerged, you can speed up the flow a little, still aiming the flow at the plate. If this is done carefully, the water should be quite clear from the very beginning. If you aren't careful enough, don't panic. The tank will look cloudy for a few days, but it will eventually settle out.

When the tank is about 3/4 full, it's time to plant:
Here is a list of good sturdy beginners' plants. Those with a * are particularly good "nutrient sponges", and should be emphasized in a start-up tank:

Common Name - Scientific Name - Origin

Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus - Asia
Java Moss* - Vesicularia dubyana - Asia
Water Sprite* - Ceratopteris thalictroides - World Wide
Water Wisteria* - Hygrophilla difformis - Asia
Small Leafed Hygro* - Hygrophilla polysperma - Asia
Giant Hygro*- one of several Hygrophilla sp. - Asia
Willow Leaf Hygro* - Hygrophilla angustifolia - Asia
Valisneria or Tape Grass - Valisneria sp. - New World and Africa
Sword plants - Echinodorus sp. - New World
Rotala rotundifolia* - same - Asia
Milfoil or Foxtail - Myriophyllum sp. - World Wide
Ambulia - Limnophila sp. - Asia
Fuzzy Duck Weed - Salvinia sp. - New World
Anubias barteri - same - Africa

All of these plants should be readily available. If your local pet shop doesn't regularly stock them, they should be able to order them for you from their supplier. Beware of choosing plants for your aquarium just because they look pretty. Many pet stores sell a number of terrestrial plants as aquarium "decorations". These WILL NOT survive long term, and as they deteriorate, they will add to the waste materials in your tank. There are also a number of very tempting red plants for sale. While some of these are good aquarium plants, most need very strong light, and are a little more sensitive than the species listed above.

- "Rosette" or "crown" plants are planted individually in the substrate. Make sure that the crown itself is above the substrate surface. Only the roots should be buried. This is also true for the thick rhizome of Anubias plants.
- Stem plants are usually sold in rootless "bunches". They should be removed from their elastic band or lead weight, and planted no more than 3 stems at a time. They will quickly root themselves under good conditions. If they tend to float out of the substrate in the beginning, you can place a few small stones around the base. Another trick is to leave them floating for a week or so. Usually they will have begun to develop roots in that period of time, and it will be much easier to keep them down.
- Water Sprite can either be left floating, or planted in the substrate.
- Salvinia (and several other similar small plants) are floaters. Remember that they increase quickly, and remove most of them when you do other tank maintenance. Don't let more than 1/3 of the water surface become covered with these plants.
- Java Moss can be either left loose, or tied (or stapled) onto driftwood.
- Java Fern does not usually do well with its roots in the gravel. It is best to tie or rubber band this plant to rocks or driftwood. You can even just wedge some in between two stones.

Any plants that come in plastic pots should be removed from the plastic pots, (this may require cutting the pot away with scissors) and have the rockwool removed from their roots before planting. The rockwool is used to grow the plants, and protects the roots during shipment, but it may contain hydroponic solution which can cause algae problems in the aquarium.

Now that the tank is fully planted, it is time to fill it to the top.
It should be filled to above the plastic "frame" and close to but not touching the lip that holds the cover glass. This is where the water level should be kept at all times for several reasons. If you allow the water level to drop, the water returning from the filter will splash down onto the surface, creating a great deal of turbulence. This will drive off the CO2 that we are trying to add to the tank. Additionally, the greater distance that light travels through the air, the more it will scatter, and the less that will reach your plants within the tank. On a very brightly lit tank, this is a minor consideration. With a moderately lit tank such as we are setting up here, we need to conserve our resources! Do not, however, go in the opposite direction and keep the tank full enough that the water touches the glass. This would completely stop gas exchange, which is not a good idea either!
The last thing to do is to plug in all your equipment, and see that the light timer is set for about 12 hours on and 12 hours off. You're in business!

Wait at least one week, preferably two before adding fish to the tank.
At the two week mark, you can add algae eating fish. My favorites are Otocinclus, which should be purchased in groups of at least 3, and Siamese Algae Eaters (Crossocheilus siamensis). Siamese Algae Eaters are not available in all areas of the country. They will also eventually get too large for a 10 gallon tank and will need to be traded back in to the pet store for a new, smaller specimen. If you can't find SAE's, Bushy Nosed Cats (Ancistrus sp.) are a reasonable alternative, as are some of the Clown Plecos. (Peckoltia sp.) Ghost or Glass shrimp are also good algae eaters, and are interesting to watch, but will most likely become fish food once the tank is fully populated. You'll have to decide whether your kids (and parents!) can handle that or not. Farlowella catfish are excellent algae eaters for larger tanks.
Do not feed your algae eating residents for another two weeks. Their job is to eat any algae as it appears. They won't do that if you make life too easy for them.
At the end of the first month, your plants should have settled in and be growing well. The algae eaters should be keeping up with most algae, although it is still normal to need to clean the glass from time to time. At this point, you can start stocking your tank with its final residents. You can also begin your regular maintenance routine.
Don't fall into the trap of overstocking the tank, either in terms of numbers of fish or numbers of species. In a 10 gallon tank, 3-4 species is more than adequate, while the 20-30 gallon tanks can accommodate a few more. The fish will display more natural behaviors than if the tank is stocked with the "Ark mentality" (two of these and two of those).
My personal preference is to stick with compatible fish from a single geographic area. But of course, this is a matter of personal preference, and as long as the species chosen are compatible, and occupy different areas of the tank, the fish will not care that they come from different continents! If you want to be completely true to your geographical theme, you can choose plants native to those areas as well.
If possible, pick one species that stays near the surface, one species that is a mid water swimmer, and another that stays near the bottom. Make sure you buy multiples of any schooling fish. An absolute minimum number of any schooling species is 3-5 individuals, 12 or more will allow true schooling behavior.
Steer clear of fish that are known to be scrappy unless you have an experienced aquarist that can help you plan a community around them. There are so many beautiful, interesting and peaceful species available that it makes no sense to set yourself up for problems. Also avoid fish that are known plant eaters.
Once you have decided on the population mix for your tank, add them slowly. Bring in one species the first week, another the next until the tank is fully stocked. This will allow the good bacteria in the filter to adjust slowly to the increasing bioload.

Monday, March 23, 2009

Why people set up planted tanks. What are the benefits of a planted tank.

Some excerpts,

http://www.freshwateraquariumplants.com/plantedaquariums.html

Aquatic ecosystems in nature are for the most part like uncharted territories. People are only able to observe them on the surface or perhaps a glimpse of life at the waters edge, but few have observed what goes on below the surface. While ocean environments are filmed and offered to the public in the form of television and zoos, underwater freshwater films, and freshwater planted aquariums in zoos are few and far between. Freshwater planted aquariums open ones eyes to that world and the sometimes rather complex and fascinating behaviors of it's inhabitants. By owning an aquarium and observing aquatic life people are connected with those ecosystems and understand how valuable they really are, and the need to protect them from pollution and destruction of habitat.

While one can only observe land animals for a short period of time in their natural environment, with an aquarium one can have a piece of nature right in their home complete with plants, fish, and invertebrates that they can observe anytime! And adding live plants to the mix turns your aquarium into living art, one that is ever changing and growing! Let's not forget the positive effects it has on it's owners. A random survey of 100 fish owners by the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association (APPMA) found that people who own fish have lower blood pressure, suffer from stress less frequently, sleep better, have more success in romantic relationships, and missed fewer days of work than those who don’t own any finned friends. This is part of an article contained here; Benefits of Aquariums. Another good article is found here; More benefits. In conclusion, we are dedicated to your success with your live planted aquarium and provide the assistance and backup after you receive your aquarium plants to help insure that your planted aquarium is beautiful, and provides your family with positive experiences for years to come.
Don Matakis, Owner and Aquatic Grower & Senior Aquaculturist for Freshwater Aquarium Plants


Starting a Planted Tank, http://www.fishchannel.com/setups/special/planted-tank-setup.aspx

Starting your first aquatic planted tank.

By Scott Hieber

Anyone who ever bought a single strand of anachris (Egeria densa) or cabomba (Cabomba spp.), threw it into a fish tank, poked the stem end down into the gravel, then watched it slowly decay and die may tell you that aquatic plants are hard to grow and fraught with algae problems. Of course, if you bought a tropical fish, put it in an aquarium and then just left it there waiting for it to grow, you would notice that eventually the fish would become malnourished that the water quality was now poor, the glass was covered with algae, and the fish eventually died prematurely.

It actually takes some effort to keep fish, and the same is true for aquatic plants. You might have heard someone without practical aquatic gardening experience say that aquatic plants have difficult lighting requirements, need expensive pressurized equipment, bring snails into the aquarium and promote algae. None of this is true — or need be. Generally speaking, aquatic plants are no harder to keep than tropical fish, and in some ways an aquatic garden is easier to maintain than a fish tank. More importantly, very often a fish tank can be easier to maintain and keep attractive if it is well planted.

Many of the same basic principles apply to fish tanks and aquatic gardens. They both need food and clean water to be healthy, for example. Of course, plants do have some different needs, such as carbon dioxide (CO2), which is freely available in the air and water. Luckily, the needs of fish and plant mesh very well, except for certain fish that insist on vigorously rearranging their environment and chewing plants to shreds (some African cichlids come to mind).

If you enjoy keeping fish and appreciate the variety of body types, coloring, and behaviors, then you probably also enjoy a visually pleasing aquarium scene — a lovely aquascape. Aquatic plants are one of the nicest ways to decorate an aquarium. While nice plantless aquascapes are certainly possible with rocks and/or or driftwood or little ceramic castles or plastic burping clams (if that’s how your taste runs), simply seeing a lush, well-planned, nicely maintained aquatic garden is enough to convince many hobbyists to add plants.

Benefits for Fish
Aesthetics aside, plants can do very desirable things for a fish tank. They provide hiding places and breeding sites for fish, supply oxygen, absorb ammonia, nitrates and phosphate. They also make a dynamic visual environment — an aquatic garden changes over time, much like a regular garden does.

In a way, plants are more territorial than fish. A rooted plant tries to claim its ground steadfastly (and quite literally). Plants will “fight” for the same ground, one trying to shade out the other or obtain nutrients faster. Despite this somewhat anthropomorphic observation, we can note that plants are, on the whole, quite peaceful. With the care of an attentive gardener, a great many plants can share the environment in an aquarium. Plants won’t jump out of the tank, although some of them eventually will try to “climb” out if not pruned.

Let’s first take a moment to recount the benefits of a planted aquarium. (Of course, one can have plant-only aquariums, but typically there are at least a few small fish.)

A more natural-looking aquarium. Live plants do look more natural than plastic decorations.

Visual interest. A little planning before planting a garden provides interesting and sometimes stunning natural variations in size, form and color.

Safe harbor for fish. A garden provides many places for fish to hide, and ironically enough, it seems that the availability of nearby safe harbor causes fish to enjoy swimming out in the open more, being aware that shelter is near if needed.

Natural borders. Fish can more easily establish territories with plants demarcating different zones.

Added oxygen. A lot of plants means a lot of oxygen, and photosynthesis creates free oxygen in the water (sometimes you will even see bubbles forming on or escaping from plants, affectionately referred to as “pearling”).

Natural filtering. Plants feed on ammonia, nitrates and inorganic phosphate compounds (a.k.a., orthophosphates). Plants are a biological filter you can enjoy looking at.

Every endeavor worth the effort has pitfalls, even aquatic gardening. So, let us now consider those.

Algae and Light
Contrary to the myth of years ago, an aquatic garden does not promote algae growth. In fact, a healthy garden will actually inhibit new algae growth. However, you must clean up what algae does appear by scraping the glass (an old credit card can be inexpensively effective), rubbing off of leaves or just pruning away leaves with marked algae growth on them. Once the tank is clean, keep it that way. A little regular tidying up is much easier than infrequent major overhauls.

If you use a lot of light (more than 2 watts of fluorescent illumination per gallon) or use a lot of fish food, do 40 to 50-percent water changes weekly. This prevents accumulation of organics in the water — which some algae can use — and wipes away a multitude of sins, such as overfeeding and overfertilizing the plants. Water changes are even more important in a fish-only aquarium because it lacks the chemical filtering that plants perform.

But do not expect your plants to make for a perfectly balanced closed micro-ecosystem. Watch the plants. If they are healthy and growing, you might be able to decrease the frequency of water changes. In an aquarium with less than 2 watts per gallon of light and no overstocking of fish, you might not need to do water changes more than once every few weeks or once a month.

Too much light can promote algae, and too little light prevents plants from photosynthesizing enough, in which case they won’t grow as much or absorb as much nutrition from the water. Yet the acceptable light range is very broad, from about 1½ to 3 or 4 watts per gallon. The ideal is roughly 2, which gives a nice balance between addressing plant needs without having more light than they can use. Any more than this and you will need to supplement with CO2 so that the plants can make use of the additional light.

Getting Enough To Eat
As with fish, too little nutrition is harmful to plant health, and too much is an invitation for algae and excess build-up of nitrates and organic compounds. Luckily, some of what fish give off as waste are just the things plants hunger for, namely nitrogen (ammonia or nitrates) and phosphate.

An easy way to control the plant nutrient levels is to dose potassium nitrate and dipotassium phosphate (available at hydroponics stores), and do the weekly water changes. This ensures that nutrients are present while preventing any accumulation of excess. A benefit of this method is that you don’t need any test kits to monitor changes in nutrient levels.

Net Results
It is terribly difficult to net fish in a lush aquatic garden. Various gardeners have found ways to deal with this complication. One way is to be very skilled at working with a net — which means patiently waiting for a fish to seek a bit of bait in the net and not chasing the fish into a panic. Indeed, patience rather than skill might be the greater requirement. I find this the most effective method.

Another method is to keep plants in pots at one end of the aquarium so that they can be easily removed at netting time. Another method is to use bottle traps to catch fish. You can make a bottle trap easily with a small water bottle. Cut off the top where the straight sides meet the shoulder of the top, then invert the top and place it back on the body of the bottle. Poke some holes in the body and top, and place some pieces of toothpick into the holes to hold the inverted top in place. Put some fish food in the bottle, and place the bottle in the aquarium. Eventually, you catch the fish you want. It does not take as long as you might first suspect, but it might take a few days. And you might find that a fish you do not want to trap repeatedly enters the bottle. If that happens, put in a second trap (some fish just can’t be trained).

Yet another technique — one that works well if you need to net fish often — is to use plants that grow clinging to rocks or driftwood rather than rooted in substrate. Good, easy-to-grow examples of such plants are Java fern and the various species of Anubias.

Spending More On Plants Than Fish
Although aquatic gardening need not be expensive, there is no limit to the degree of involvement one might indulge. Consummate involvement affects only a small percentage of those who take up aquatic gardening. In its more extreme form, it can lead to multiple aquariums, room additions to your house to accommodate them and a higher electric bill. Early signs of extreme are increased humidity in the house all year around, a momentary dimming of the household lights when timers on the aquariums lights all switch on and the realization that the drained water from your water changes has eliminated the need to run the lawn sprinklers even during droughts.

It can be difficult for the aquatic gardener to notice when a mere penchant turns to fervent passion or fervent passion to obsessive preoccupation. However, friends can sometimes be a source of independent assessment, leading to tempered behavior (or, less often, seeking new friends). In addition, spousal support or an “intervention” may help abate the condition, as may the bank’s refusal to grant yet another mortgage on your house. In most cases, your natural propensity for prudence and balancing priorities will suffice to temper your aquatic gardening tendencies.


Dev’s aquarium offers – ‘Finding Nemo’


‘Finding Nemo’ is a start of a journey. A cross over, I had been dreaming for quite some time.

As an aquarium hobbyist, I was unhappy with the quality of awareness, product and service around me. I wanted to change that. I wanted to start up some activity through which I could make things better.

Hence, I have put in my effort to start offering my services and products for the general hobbyist.

‘Finding Nemo’ or ‘Nemo’ as I lovingly call it has three pillars. You can call them values as well.

They are,

1. Spread awareness by show casing specimen works, passing on knowledge to any and all interested hobbyist, guidance to the hobbyists and providing technical support.

2. Quality is uncompromisable. Period. Hence, stringent quality controls, regular action on client feedbacks and wants, are a constant.

3. To offer finest quality products and top notch professional services at a very competitive price. I can proudly say that all the products that you will find in this page are of top quality and they all come at a better price than what you have been paying your local LFSs'.

So without any further ado, I urge you guys to check out the offerings. I sincerely need you to patronize me as my efforts and intension align with spreading the hobby, so kindly spread the word around, that –

Now you will have round the clock availability of best quality products and fishes within your means, right in your city. So, NO need to get things mail ordered. NO more waiting, NO dead fishes and half dead live stock.

You will see best quality products first hand before buying. You will get to evaluate different options that your local LFS have not even heard of.

You will get genuine advice here, unlike your LFS. You will not be advised to buy a ‘Tinfoil Barb’ or a ‘Pacu’ or a full grown ‘Flowerhorn’ for your 2*1*1 aquarium.

You will get all varieties of exotic water plants for your planted aquarium.

Now, you can get quality professional services for setting up a show tank and its maintenance.

All these facilities come with great pricing to ensure that you get the best deal, every time.

Picture credit - http://www.cau-aqua.net/index.php?option=com_zoom&Itemid=29&page=view&catid=190&key=0&hit=1